Chowing bunnies might well be an age-old ritual in places where the likes of guinea pigs and dogs are a delicacy. Bunnies are also consumed more popularly at Easter, although most often these are chocolate representations. Bunnychow may leave you either craving rabbit or horrified at the thought of lop-eared mammals for your dinner. However it’s unlikely you’ll find any bunnies around for miles, except maybe as pets of Soho’s elite resident children. You also won’t find any Easter treats here either. Instead you will find big bold flavours of curry stuffed into a hollowed out bread loaf. Winner.
Occupying a plum position on Wardour Street, Bunnychow’s first permanent outpost serves a South African fast food synonymous with the Durban Indian community. The culinary concoction was developed by migrant labour working the fields of South Africa and their need to transport vegetable curries for lunch. A ban on Indian workers frequenting local cafes during the Apartheid years and a lack of traditional roti to go with their curries probably helped. Baked breads are filled generously with curry, traditionally mutton or bean stews. The loaf is broken into bits and dipped into the stew. Bunnychow have of course adapted their offering for the local clientele having first occupied a small spot in Shoreditch’s Boxpark before moving to Soho.
You’ll have a tough time trying to eat a bunny chow elegantly so just dive in and go mental for the exceptional fillings. The African-Indian fusion combines spicy fillings with mutton, pork or chicken fillings, plus a very good vegetarian curry. Bunnychow offer to combine two fillings for those undecided, even more genius. The trend-following Piri Piri pulled pork was rich and moist, together with a spicy mutton curry, was a great combination of flavours. Big fillings in a small loaf with a lid at just £5 show why bunnies are so popular across South Africa. With great counter service and friendly staff, their small restaurant is well designed with memories and facts of South Africa, and in particular the home of the bunny, Durban.
Topped with their crunchy homemade slaw with sides of risotto and baked beans available, you could question how South African Indian the current menu is if you really want. But you won’t question how awesome the meat or veg juice soaked bread walls are once you’ve used a fork to get through the initial filling. Dive in and get messy with the crusty loaf before it gets soggy. It’s only a matter of time.
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